What a label! Labels aren’t something I normally dwell on, and this one might be a little too bold for some, but that extravagant green peacock is tricky to just walk past. Throw in the offer price of £4, plus a curiosity to see what Romania could do with this much maligned grape (at least on this site anyway), and I just had to take a punt.
Let’s say you gave me three words to describe this wine’s character. I’d think about it for a second or two, and then say “citrus, citrus and erm, citrus.” Note that I didn’t plump for ‘bland’. Or for ‘insipid’. If you’re wondering why I’m pointing this out, please check out my reviews of Sainsburys’ and Morrisons’ Verdicchios.
The bottle suggests that the drinker is going to experience a fruit salad. I don’t go along with that. No apples or pineapple for me. Just lots of citrus. Grapefruit more than anything else, but there’s a good squeeze of lime juice in there too. And, as you’d expect from a citrussy wine, there’s a healthy amount of acidity. Perhaps one to avoid for those who like their whites rich and opulent, but one to hunt down for anyone who’s into whites with a bit more zing. It certainly knocks the socks off all those offensively boring Italian Pinot Grigios that somehow lure in the punters.
Much like Bradshaw’s Pinot Noir, this is simple, but honest and agreeable. It’s not complex enough to get the critics excited, but at the normal price of £6, it’s excellent value. Walking out of the shop having parted with a mere £4 feels almost criminal.