Anyone who’s read my comments on Sainsbury’s offering of Verdicchio* might be quite surprised to see that I’ve even gone near this wine. I’d like to think it’s because I have a noble determination to avoid writing off a style based upon one example. Then again, maybe I just like have something to complain about.
You see, this is the fourth Morrisons own brand wine I’ve reviewed. I’ve been forced to give the other three high praise, and I keep thinking that I will trip them up somewhere. And where better to try than with the champions of insipid plonk – cheap Italian whites?
At first, I thought I’d succeeded. Out of the fridge, into the glass, swirl, sniff, sip and we get… tame lemon. Nothing more, nothing less. In my eagerness to conclude that Morrison’s own brand range was fallible, I perhaps forgot that any decent white is better once it’s a tad warmer than the fridge. After all, fridge temperature, with its ability to mask the character of most wines, is usually only any good for disguising poor quality.
The tasting continued, and with every sip, the sneaky Verdicchio just got more and more interesting. Almost as though nodding to the subject of my last review, on the aged Semillon, there’s a touch of butteriness to the texture. And, in keeping with the reputation of good Italian whites, there’s also a hint of nuttiness. I finished the glass still undecided whether it’s more akin to almond or hazlenut, but whichever, it’s there and it is rather pleasant. The lemon continues to take centre stage of course, and it’s strong enough to be tantalising, while controlled enough not to ‘need food’.
Unsure of the price (because it was part of a case that was a gift), I’ve just checked Morrisons’ online shop. £4.28 apparently. That price seems outrageously cheap, and I wonder whether it’s a mistake. They have sold out though, so maybe not. But even at say £7, it would still be an infinitely better buy than Sainsbury’s Verdicchio.