The name means ‘Crazy Bull’ and well, you would have to be crazy to believe that a £3.79 wine could be any good. Wouldn’t you?
If there is any region of Spain that could produce a credible red wine at this price, it’s going to be the area around Valencia. Last year’s review of Las Falleras talked about that region’s reputation for decent but keenly priced offerings, and Toro Loco is from the same place. But even Las Falleras costs £5.29 now. It’s difficult to imagine how you can knock £1.50 off that and still have a reasonable product left over. And Tempranillo isn’t reputed to be the easiest of varieties to work with either.
Tasting Toro Loco instantly reminded me an awful lot of the Cano Tempranillo-Garnacha, featured recently on wineontrial. I didn’t have many good things to say about that wine. But fortunately, Toro Loco is slightly better in every possible way.
The cherry flavour is juicy and pronounced, and it resembles real fruit rather than something artificial. The medicinal note in Cano isn’t really there. In its place is a pleasant note of liquorice. The tannins in Toro Loco don’t assault your gums, and the acidity level is a welcome notch higher than Cano’s. Put all these improvements together and what you have is a wine which is pretty simple, but fun to drink.
I don’t know how you make a pleasant wine for £3.79 a bottle. It defies logic, and yet, as it turns out, it is possible.